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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate well-known high-end establishments. Yet, nestled prominently among these food giants is a simple salonu found in a outlying area of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

The compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. This honour has left the owners totally surprised.

“I am totally shocked,” says the family member, referring to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their modest restaurant securing such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its earlier character. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the fare, and this restaurant more than excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent consistency.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning outside its own doors. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this gastronomic honour.