Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and tourists equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive list of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it enters a international community of cities cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "is a testament to its centuries-old culinary traditions and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of seventy urban centers around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this time-honored city arrives as no surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the limelight for what has consistently characterized its soul: an profound passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued dialogue from waking up until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, perfected, and raised to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – lesser-known delights that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is precise and involved. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however say that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will encourage more people around the world to learn these narratives and visit the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
